China · Chinese
Braised boned silver-carp head
One of the three signature dishes, and both the action and the name turn on 'chai'. The head is salted, steamed until the flesh comes off the bone, and **boned while keeping the head's whole shape** — what is taken apart is the bone, not the form. Shiitake, winter bamboo shoot and ham are braised with it in stock with soy, wine and black vinegar, thickened and glossed with oil. The Qing 调鼎集 records the dish under its earlier name, 'braised fathead carp': split the bone out of the head, put it in fresh stock, and colour it with soy, wine, ginger and scallion. Public reference · home adaptation, not a historical original.
Public reference · Home adaptation '拆烩' states the whole sequence in two characters: **拆** means first steaming the head until the flesh releases from the bone and picking every pin-bone out; **烩** means braising it with shiitake, winter bamboo shoot and ham in fresh stock. The hard part is what comes after: the flesh must be gathered back into the shape of a whole head, because what the table is meant to see is that complete head, lifted with a soup spoon in one movement. On origins, public accounts give at least two stories: one about a stingy late-Qing Yangzhou landowner who had the fish body cooked for the family and gave the head to the carpenters, with the cook later rebuilding it in chicken broth and giving it its name; the other placing it in the late-Qing Zhenjiang restaurant Zhonghuayuan. Both are treated as legend and reported anecdote. The article itself notes that the ancient method in 调鼎集 was called 'braised fathead carp' and reads 'split the bone out of the head, put it in fresh stock, and colour it with soy, wine, ginger and scallion', while stating that exactly when and by whom the final dish was settled 'lacks solid historical documentation'. Fish head is an old Huaiyang banquet tradition. The cited report quotes the Ming 鱼品 on why a big fish's head is prized ('the larger it is, the more the head is rich, and the finest of flavours') and Zheng Banqiao's verse 'a beauty's slender fingers roasting a fish head' — 'roasting' is a different route from today's braise, and is included as cultural background only, not as a basis for this dish's method. The 2018 group-standard report lists the three signature dishes by name only, so **this technique comes from a public home recipe and the method recorded in 调鼎集, with no correspondence to the banquet's own kitchen method**; it is not a historical original. **The seat list records only the dish name, not the method; this version's technique comes from the public home recipe Braised boned silver-carp head on xiachufang and from the earlier method recorded in 调鼎集 as quoted in the Sohu feature The origins of braised boned silver-carp head, and has no correspondence to the actual three-head-banquet kitchen method.** It is not a historical original or a house secret. **The core process cannot be skipped:** the source says that after the head comes out of the steamer and is taken apart, it is 'put back in' — that is, **it goes into the pot and onto the table still in the shape of a whole head, with the bones removed**; this is the real difference between this dish and red-braised head chunks, and this version follows it and says so. **调鼎集 records it as 'split the bone out of the head, put it in fresh stock, and colour it with soy, wine, ginger and scallion'**, which this version takes as one basis for the historical method. The Sohu article's two accounts — a late-Qing miserly Wei landowner and the carpenter Cao Shou, and Zhenjiang's Zhonghuayuan restaurant and chef Dai Jinchun — are **treated as legend and reported anecdote, not fact**; the article itself states that exactly when and by whom the dish was settled 'lacks solid historical documentation'. **Quantities, steaming time and seasoning ratios are editorial for 6 servings and have not been kitchen-tested.** **Silver carp is a fish and a common allergen, and it has fine bones**, which must be stated on the banquet sheet and when serving. Only the technique is taken; no therapeutic claims are adopted. **Contains fish (silver carp, a common allergen),** soy and wheat (light soy, dark soy, cooking wine); ham and seasonings may carry other ingredients such as nitrite preservatives, so check labels. **Silver carp has fine bones:** although the method removes them, they must be checked for repeatedly and guests must still be warned when the dish is served. Fish must be prepared on boards and utensils separate from fish-free dishes. Contains meat; this is not a vegetarian dish. 下厨房:拆烩鲢鱼头 — The method itself: wash and split the head; slice and blanch the shiitake and winter bamboo shoot, and prepare the aromatics; trim and blanch the Shanghai bok choy to edge the plate; steam the ham and slice; combine with scallion, ginger, wine, white pepper and salt, salt the fish and steam it seven or eight minutes; take the head out and remove the bones; stir-fry the aromatics, add the winter shoot, shiitake and ham, then return the head, add wine, dark soy and aged vinegar, season with salt, sugar and MSG, cook until flavoured, thicken and gloss with oil. https://m.xiachufang.com/recipe/102875658/ 淮扬名菜——拆烩鲢鱼头的由来(搜狐,2023-05-18) — Cultural and historical basis: braised boned silver-carp head is the 'fish head' of the Yangzhou classic three-head banquet. Two accounts of its origin are given — a late-Qing landowner and the carpenters, and Zhenjiang's Zhonghuayuan restaurant. The article also states that the ancient method dates to the late Qing, carrying forward the Huaiyang maxim 'never tire of refining the food, never tire of refining the braise'; its prototype existed in the Qianlong period, and in 调鼎集 it was first called braised fathead carp, made by 'splitting the bone from the head, putting it into fresh stock, and colouring it with soy, wine, ginger and scallion', while the dish's final settling lacks solid historical documentation; it also quotes the Ming 鱼品, 'the larger it is, the more the head is rich, and the finest of flavours', and Zheng Banqiao's verse 'a beauty's slender fingers roasting a fish head'. https://www.sohu.com/a/676812495_121723655 扬州晚报美食团:扬州发布“三头宴”团体标准(搜狐,2018-01-18) — Seat evidence: braised boned silver-carp head is one of the three signature dishes; the report notes it keeps the shape of the head while the bones and pin-bones are removed, that fish head has long been a Huaiyang classic, and quotes 'silver-carp head gently stewed in the pan'. The report records dish names and a general characterisation only, with no quantities or method. https://www.sohu.com/a/217424559_740963 AI-generated illustration; not kitchen-tested.
Ingredients
- silver carp head, split in half but kept whole1500 g
- shiitake, soaked and sliced100 g
- winter bamboo shoot, sliced and blanched150 g
- ham, steamed and sliced60 g
- Shanghai bok choy, trimmed and blanched to edge the plate200 g
- fresh stock, unsalted chicken broth800 ml
- scallions, cut into segments40 g
- ginger, sliced20 g
- light soy sauce30 ml
- dark soy sauce10 ml
- aged black vinegar20 ml
- cooking wine30 ml
- white sugar8 g
- salt5 g
- starch for thickening12 g
- vegetable oil40 ml
Directions
- 1
Wash the head and **split it down the middle of the chin into two large pieces** (do not chop it up), then drain. Trim the gills, jaw bone and dark membrane and wash the film off both sides. **Cut along the bone so the broken faces stay clean — that is what makes the later boning possible.**
- 2
Prepare the accompaniments: soak and slice the shiitake; slice and blanch the winter bamboo shoot to remove bitterness; trim and blanch the Shanghai bok choy and drain; steam the ham and slice it thinly. Cut the scallion into segments and the ginger into slices, and keep a little shredded scallion and ginger for salting the fish.
- 3
**Salt:** rub the head all over with shredded scallion and ginger, wine, white pepper and a little salt and leave about 20 minutes. Then **steam it 7–8 minutes**, until the flesh can be nudged apart with a chopstick and has clearly separated from the bone but is still in whole pieces. **Over-steaming and the flesh falls apart, leaving nothing to gather back into the shape of a head.**
- 4
**Take it apart (the hardest step):** lift out the steamed head and **pick out every bone while still hot** — run a chopstick along each joint, and gather the flesh carefully back into two pieces that keep the outline of the whole head. **Support the flesh with your hand as you work** so it does not collapse. Keep the bones together as you go and **check repeatedly that no fine bone is left in.**
- 5
Heat a little oil, fry the aromatics until fragrant, then the sliced shiitake, winter shoot and ham. Set the **reassembled head** into the pan gently — **do not press it with the spatula and do not turn it over**, so the shape stays whole.
- 6
Pour in the wine, add stock to just cover, and season with light soy, dark soy, aged black vinegar, sugar and salt. Bring to the boil, turn down low, cover and simmer 15–20 minutes so the head takes on the flavour. **The aged vinegar is the key to this dish** — it gives a sour fragrance and takes away any fishiness; without it the whole dish tastes flat.
- 7
Pour in the starch slurry, nudging the spatula gently as you pour (**still do not turn the head**), and when the sauce is thick enough to cling, gloss with a little oil and take off the heat. **Do not let the glaze get heavy** — a thick glaze glues the flesh into one mass and the head shape is lost at the table.
- 8
On a fish platter, ring the blanched Shanghai bok choy around the edge, **set the whole head in the centre face up**, and spoon the glaze over. Scatter with scallion. **When serving, tell the guests the fish has been boned but to take care all the same**, and explain how to eat it: a soup spoon drawn from the crown of the head downward, taking flesh and sauce together.
Source: WorldBite · public-reference adaptation · Source-attributed editorial adaptation; AI illustration; not an authenticated original recipe.